Vylepšený prepojiteľný PC

sú dnes presne dva typy osobných počítačov. Ak potrebujete veľa konských síl, výkonný GPU alebo plnohodnotný CPU, skončíš s pracovnou plochou. Ak potrebujete niečo prenosné, dostanete notebook s CPU WIMPY a nedostatočným GPU. Historicky, došlo k treťom type PC, záruka. Záruka je stolný počítač napchávaný do puzdra, ktorý ho robí o niečo viac prenosný ako pracovná plocha a monitor. Teraz si nemôžete kúpiť záložný PC CASE TERAZ. Jednoducho neexistujú ako komerčný produkt, do ktorého môžete strčiť svoj vlastný hardvér. Toto je tvarový faktor celý priemysel zabudol.

Teraz je tu DIY LugGAble PC. Tento projekt z [Roger] balí štandardnú základnú dosku ATX, plnej veľkosti GPU, plnej veľkosti napájania a všetko ostatné, čo robí stolný počítač výkonný do puzdra, ktorý môže byť uložený v hornom bin.

[Roger] pracuje na tomto projekte na chvíľu, a to bolo uvedené na Habowaday späť, keď to vyzeralo ako deaktivovanie Mendel. Tam boli niektoré významné zlepšenia oproti predchádzajúcim iteráciám tohto projektu, vrátane veľmi, veľmi chladného pántového mechanizmu, ktorý umožňuje displej zložiť, keď sa počítač nepoužíva. Je to mechanický zázrak, ktorý zabraňuje poškriabaniu. Úhľad. Zvyšok puzdra je vytvorený z 2020 hliníkového vytláčania a asi jeden kilogramová cievka vlákna.

Keďže ide o prenosný prípad, existuje niekoľko kompromisov. Nie je 5,25 “zátoky, žiadne 3,5” zátoky a niekoľko 2,5 “zátoky. M.2 SSDS a USB-Powered CD disky existujú, takže to nie je veľký problém.

Toto je skutočne fantastický prípad vo forme faktor, ktorý nemôžete kúpiť nikde inde. Ak máte náhradný monitor a trochu vytláčania sedí, to je jeden na to, aby ste sa stavali.

TOOLS: wise TWEEZERS

We’re huge fans of surface install parts. SMD elements are cheaper, take less board space, as well as don’t need drilling; all the coolest new parts are only offered in SMD packages.

Smart Tweezers are an advanced multimeter tool particularly designed to test as well as troubleshoot SMD circuits. It immediately determines resistors, capacitors, as well as inductors, as well as screens the appropriate measurements. advanced gadgets sent us a pair of wise Tweezers to review. We utilized them while building our last few SMD projects, checked out about our experience with this tool after the break.

Tool overview

Smart Tweezers are a multimeter that measures resistance,  capacitance, inductance, as well as voltage with tweezer-like probes. The probes are shaped to hold loose SMD components, or test elements already soldered to a PCB. measurements are displayed on a little graphic LCD that reverses for left or right hand use. If you’ve ever tried to determine SMD elements with a typical multimeter, the value of the tweezer profile is instantly apparent.

Starting at $300, this tool is meant for experts who routinely debug, test, or repair work SMD electronics. It’s a bit out of reach for a hobbyist who just wishes to salvage SMD parts.

Using it

We checked the wise Tweezers while establishing three recent SMD projects: the diy digital photo frame, the Bus Pirate version 1, as well as an upcoming ethernet device. It’s a genuine headache to debug an SMD circuit with typical multimeter probes: balance the probes on the correct pins, ensure that the probes don’t produce temporary contacts that aren’t because of soldering, as well as then hold this setting long sufficient to get a great measurement. This only gets worse if you have to repeat a number of times. The wise Tweezers test SMD elements with a quick single-handed squeeze.

The wise Tweezers’ graphic menu is navigated with a simple jog wheel. The tool turns on with a press of the jog wheel, as well as turns off immediately after an adjustable timeout. The default auto-measurement mode attempts to spot the type of element as well as selects the very best properties to display, however auto-mode is a bit slower than setting a specific measurement mode.

Resistance

Every multimeter measures resistance, a typical multimeter has a number of test varieties that are toggled manually. The wise Tweezers determine resistor values between 0.1Ohm as well as 5MOhms, without handbook variety adjustments. In the picture we’re measuring a 390ohm, 1% resistor.

Capacitance

Capacitance measurement is a function that’s discovered on some high-end multimeters. The wise Tweezers determine capacitance between 10pF as well as 499µF. In the picture we’re measuring a 27pF, 5% capacitor commonly utilized in a crystal oscillator.

A measurement taken from a single capacitor shows its value. A measurement taken from a circuit card shows the overall capacitance of all linked elements as well as of the PCB itself.

Inductance

Inductance measurement is seldom discovered on a multimeter. The wise Tweezers determine inductance between 1µH as well as 1H. We didn’t have an SMD inductor to measure, however we tried a through-hole inductor coil from a switch mode power supply.

Napätie

The wise Tweezers likewise determine as much as 8volts AC or DC. After navigating to the voltage mode, the wise Tweezers beep up until you flip a small, recessed switch in the side of the case. The switch is as well recessed to flip with a fingernail, so we utilized a through-hole resistor lead.

In the picture we’re doing a quick inspect to make sure that a small SOT-23 LTC2631a digital to analog converter is properly soldered to an adapter board as well as getting power.

Continuity/Open Test

The wise Tweezers have a continuity inspecting mode that beeps to confirm connections between parts. This is an simple method to make sure every leg of a big SMD chip is properly soldered, or to search for broken/damaged components.

Current

The wise Tweezers don’t directly determine present consumption, however it’s simple to determine utilizing voltage as well as resistance measurements with the equation Ir=Vr/R.

A look inside

As with any type of tool, we can’t assist however take it apart as well as see what’s inside.

The batteries are replaced by eliminating three screws as well as the front cover of the device. This view exposes the batteries, the LCD screen, a little piezoelectric speaker, as well as the back of the circuit board.

A single screw in the back of the situation holds the circuit card in place. We eliminated the screw to subject the front of the circuit board. The wise Tweezers are powered by a Texas Instruments MSP430F135 microcontroller as well as a half-dozen analog chips. The MSP430 line is widely known for low power consumption, as well as it’s a rational option for a pZariadenie. Väčšina prvkov pasívneho podpery je veľkosť 0402 alebo menšia.

Záver

Múdry tweezery nás zachránili veľa času budovy, ako aj ladenie troch povrchových inštalácií Elektronické návrhy. Jednoduchý zachytávanie, ako aj test je oveľa rýchlejší, rovnako ako ľahšie ako nešikovne sondované malé časti s naším lacným multimetrom. Je to oveľa jednoduchšie, v skutočnosti by sme mohli držať múdry pinzety jednou rukou, ako aj všetky obrázky v tomto článku s druhým; Skúste to s typickým multimetrom.

Veríme, že dva malé úpravy by mohli nástroj ešte jednoduchšie používať. Po prvé, väčšie tlačidlo by uľahčilo prepnutie do režimu voltmetrov bez kábla alebo skrutkovača. Po druhé, bolo by to naozaj pekné, ak by to mohlo byť zapnuté stláčaním tweezers spolu, a nie stlačením jog.

Skutočne sa mi páčila automatická detekcia prvkov, ako aj Auto v rozsahu, ako aj rýchlosť merania je vynikajúca. Oceňujeme, že Tweezer Tipy sú vymeniteľné, pretože sme skutočne ťažké na našich nástrojoch.

Ak ste expert alebo stážista, ktorý robí veľa práce s SMD Electronics, pár múdrych pinzety vám môže ušetriť čas minimalizáciou nepríjemných meraní multimetrov na jednoduchú stláčanie. Tento relatívne nákladný nástroj je s najväčšou pravdepodobnosťou overkill pre všetkých hard-core hobby, ale ak získate zárobky z elektroniky, ako keby sme urobili, múdre pinzety môžu byť skutočne užitočné.

THE REDBULL creation contest BEGINS!

The RedBull creation contest begins today.

Last year, we had a ton of fun competing in the RedBull creation contest. The idea is that RedBull hosts this big contest where teams compete by making amazing stuff. Finalists get to take a trip to Brooklyn for a build off extravaganza. Frankly, we think this is how ALL advertising budgets should be spent.

This year, however, we will not be participating as a team in the contest. We’ll be helping judge it!

The hardware:

In previous years, RedBull has sent out some custom hardware for people to use. Last year it was basically an Arduino on a custom PCB with some amazing touch sensors. This year, they’ve sent out this multi purpose LED controller shield that looks pretty impressive.

You can see all the details along with a breakdown of the board from the creator himself, after the break.

From [JoeJoe], the creator of the board:

Basically, it is kind of an LED lighting multi-tool with some extra sensors and output devices on-board. The board is controlled over I2C using an Arduino Uno R3, or you can air-wire pretty much any device that supports 400KHz (fast mode) I2C to the breakout pads. We’ve tested it with some of custom networked devices and with Raspberry Pi, for example. The I2C addresses of each device are written on the silkscreen of the board, though some peripherals (on pic microcontrollers for example) expect you to use that address shifted one bit to the left (they don’t automatically add in the low read/write trocha).

Onboard you will find the following:

Two smart devices for driving 12V RGB LED strip.  Each device will drive up to four strips, for a total of 24 discrete channels.  There are built-in macros for color fades over time, pulsing, random color sweeps, etc which offload the necessity of controlling of these effects from the Arduino.  To use these, follow the wiring specified on the silkscreen for the strip, and hook up at 12V power supply to the pads/terminal block at the top of the board.  I *suppose* these could also be used to PWM any sort of device that was within the current/power specs of the MOSFET, but I’d definitely suggest snubber diodes if you were to attempt any DC motor controlling. We included 5M of RGB strip in the package.

One “addressable LED strip multi-tool” device.  This handles the timing for controlling up to 256 RGB pixels of addressable strip based on the WS2811, WS2801, or LPD8806 IC.  We have included 1M of high-density WS2811 strip, which is the default mode for the device.  using the library macros, you can write a framebuffer to the strip, set up gradients between two colors across a number of pixels, rotate or auto-rotate the current framebuffer at a given speed, and create a effects such as ‘comet’ chase.  To use this device, you’ll hook 5v up to the marked location in the lower left of the board.

One DMX driving device.  This is in the lower right of the board, and is for driving 3-channel (RGB mode) DMX fixtures.  You can cut apart a 3-pin XLR cable and connect this to LED PAR cans, or any other sort of DMX fixture (fog machine maybe?).  using the library you can write a universe of DMX which will be output continuously to the A and B pins with correct timing.

One 512Kbit EEPROM, which may be preloaded with something interesting.  We included very rudimentary read/write functions for dealing with this on the byte level, but there are better 24LC512 libraries out there that could be used also.

One tri-axis MEMS accelerometer.  The library has functions to read X,Y, and Z.  This Kionix unit also has a lot of functionality that we haven’t implemented such as high-pass filtering, tap and double detection, orientation change detection, and adjustable sensitivity (+2g,+4g,+6g).

One 12-bit DAC.  This will output a waveform between 0 and 3.3V which I’m sure someone will find a good use for.

One temperature sensor.  The library has basic functions to read the current temperature and convert the result to Celsius.

One generally amazing looking circuit board which will nest lovingly with last year’s bullduino in eternal harmony.

For those that haven’t seen the video this campaign was inspired by:

NETWORKING: PIN THE TAIL ON THE HEADLESS RASPBERRY PI

eager to get deeper into robotics after dipping my toe in the water with my BB-8 droid, I purchased a Raspberry Pi 3 model B. The first step was to connect to it. but while it has built-in 802.11n wireless, I at first didn’t have a wireless access point, though I eventually did get one. That indicated I went through different ways of finding it and connecting to it with my desktop computer. definitely there are others seeking to do the same so let’s take a look at the secret incantations used to connect a Pi to a computer directly, and indirectly.

Why connect to the Pi from my desktop computer? After all, there are small monitors and keyboards that hackers frequently use to make Pi laptops and Pi tablets. Since I was going to be embedding the Pi in various robots,  I saw no need to purchase a separate monitor and keyboard for it, but I did look a little into doing so.

My desktop’s monitor uses a VGA connector but the VGA-to-HDMI adapter I gotten along with the Pi didn’t work. Also, my desktop’s ancient KeyTronic keyboard uses a PS/2 connector so that wasn’t usable either. though PS/2-to-USB adaptors do exist, my research showed that I’d need the one that has USB smarts in it, as my keyboard predates USB and has no such electronics of its own. (But it does have sweet, deep tactile keys!) My Pi would remain headless, and I’d program it by connecting to it from my desktop computer.

Connecting directly by means of Ethernet Cable

My home modem was also ancient, having no wireless. It also had only one Ethernet port. That indicated I could connect my desktop computer either to the modem or to the Raspberry Pi but not both at the same time. So on unboxing the Pi, the only way to connect it to my computer was to unplug the Ethernet cord from the modem and plug it into the Pi instead. That indicated no Internet access while working with the Pi, hardly ideal, but good enough to see if the Pi worked at all.

But for my computer to speak to the Pi, I needed the Pi’s IP address. For those not familiar with IP addresses, they consist of 4 numbers ranging from 0 to 255 separated by dots. Napríklad:

169.254.95.208

It’s really a 32-bit number but it’s written that way for readability.

Network and Sharing center in Windows
IP address and subnet mask

Going to the Windows control panel on my desktop and then the Network and Sharing Center, I could see that a network now existed.

Clicking on view status and going deeper I found some beneficial information. The first was the IP address of the desktop computer, 169.254.95.208. The IPv4 tells me that it’s using Internet Protocol version 4. The IP addresses in IPv6 differ at least in that they’re four times as long.

Further, the presence of the IPv4 Subnet Mask, 255.255.0.0 told me that a subnet, or subnetwork, had been formed between the two machines. A subnet is a group of machines making up a smaller network that may or may not be a part of a larger one. Their IP addresses all start with the same binary values, though just how lots of bits at the beginning they have in common varies. how do you know which bits are common?

Using the subnet mask
That’s where the subnet mask comes in. To find out which bits, take the subnet mask and do a bitwise and with the IP address of a maker on that subnet. As the diagram shows, the result in my case was 169.254.0.0, indicating that the Pi’s IP address must start with 169.254. another way of writing the subnet mask is in CIDR notation. In CIDR notation the IP address is followed by a / and then the number of shared bits. In this case it would be 169.254.0.0/16. The last two numbers are zeros but they need not be considering that the 16 tells you what to keep. This CIDR notation will come in helpful shortly.

Though the 169.254 was shared, that still left 65,536 (256×256) possible combinations for the two remaining numbers. To scan the network, going through every possible combination of numbers, I used nmap, downloadable from nmap.org.

‘nmap -sn’ scan results
As shown in the snapshot, I ran it in a cygwin window though there are GUI versions available too. I used the following command line.

nmap -sn 169.254.0.0/16

Note that the subnet mask is given using CIDR notation. The section about the Raspberry Pi that you see in the snapshot appeared after around 10 minutes, indicating that it took that long to scan from 169.254.0.0 to 169.254.37.77, the Pi’s IP address. even though that was what I was looking for, I left it going anyway and the full scan took just over forty-four minutes. during that time it also found my desktop computer, the host from which it was doing the scan. had the Pi’s IP address been 169.254.255.255 then it would have taken the full forty-four minutes before finding it.

The Pi’s IP address continued to be 169.254.37.77 across shutdowns and so scanning again was not necessary.

Starting Up A terminal and VNC DesktopPuTTY for SSH terminal
VNC desktop

Now that I had it connected, I needed a terminal running a safe shell (SSH) into the Pi on the desktop computer. Setting up the terminal was simply a matter of downloading the popular PuTTY program and running it. In the Session section, I filled in the Pi’s IP address, port 22, and made sure SSH was selected. That opened up a terminal window with a login prompt. The default username is pi and the password is raspberry. Of course the first thing I did was run the passwd utility to change the password.

Alternatively you can get a graphical terminal instead using VNC. This is a graphical desktop that runs in a window on you desktop computer but is really a terminal into the Pi.

Connecting by means of Ethernet using A Wireless Router

It wasn’t long after getting my Pi that I made a decision to switch to a wireless router / fiber modem combo. As a bonus, this upgrade also includes multiple Ethernet ports. I set up my desktop computer to use wireless, but I couldn’t do the same for the Pi just yet. I had to do some configuration on the Pi to set up the wireless, and so I had to connect using Ethernet first.

Router network information in a browser
Connecting to the router with Ethernet was far much easier than the direct-connection method covered above considering that no scanning was involved. Once I’d connected the Pi using an Ethernet cable, I simply brought up a browser on my desktop computer and typed the router’s IP address into the browser’s URL bar at the top. This is an address like 192.168.1.1 or 192.168.2.1, but with http:// in front of it, though some browsers don’t need the http://. check your router/modem manual.

What you see depends on your modem, but mine displayed a network graph at the bottom with the Pi’s IP address, 192.168.2.14. with that I was able to bring up a terminal using PuTTY as described above.

If you want to remain using Ethernet between your Pi and the modem then you’re done. but I wanted to go wireless so that my robots could wander around without a trailing Ethernet cable. now that I had a terminal into the Pi I could go on to the next step.

Connecting Wirelessly

The Raspberry Pi 3 model B has wireless built-in, but if you have a version without wireless then you can also get a wireless dongle that plugs into one of the Pi’s USB ports. Before you can connect to the headless Pi wirelessly, you’ll still need to connect to it using one of the above methods first, and do some configuration on the Pi.

I brought up a terminal and logged in as described above. I needed to put my wireless network name and network password into the configuration file /etc/wpa_supplicant/wpa_supplicant.conf.  But for safety reasons, I didn’t want the password to be in plain text.

Using wpa_passphrase and editing wpa_supplicant.conf
Editing wpa_supplicant.conf
So I ran wpa_passphrase “bobsnetname” “bobsnetpassword” and highlighted the output, which in this terminal, copies the highlighted text to the clipboard. “bobsnetname” and “bobsnetpassword” are of course fictitious.

I then edited /etc/wpa_supplicant/wpa_supplicant.conf and pasted from the clipboard by right-clicking. The pasted text still included a line with the password in clear text. It was commented out but nonetheless, visible, so I deleted it.

After saving, and exiting the editor I disconnected the Ethernet cable. A running program called wpa-supplicant should have taken only a few seconds after the file was changed to notice it and get the wireless going. And so after waiting a few seconds I ran ping google.com. Fungovalo to. The Pi was connected wirelessly.

Had it not been then I could have restarted it manually by running sudo wpa_cli reconfigure. This also reports the interface name, wlan0 in my case.

Running ‘ifconfig wlan0’
To additionally test it, and to get the Pi’s IP address, I ran ifconfig wlan0 and looked for the IP address beside the inet addr. It was there and with it I could connect to the Pi and start programming robots.

Those were my experiences in connecting to my Raspberry Pi, but we know that there are lots of Raspberry Pi users on Hackaday. What methods have you used, what traps have you found and what ideas do you have for getting out of them? let us know in the comments so that others don’t fall into them too.

Habowaday Links: 22. februára 2013

Playstation π

Jo, je to ešte jeden dom Made Raspberry PI CASE, Avšak [Gabriel] malá Playstation 3.14 je včelí kolená. Kryt bol, keď kovová darčeková krabička pôvodne znamenala pre darčekové karty. S niekoľkými prasiatkami Dremel, svet konečne má nový PS3, ktorý prevádzkuje Linux.

Tam s trikovým životom strojov

[Mattias] poslal v návrhu o naozaj skvelej televízii vysielania vo Švédsku. Nazýva sa Mekatronik, rovnako ako je to v podstate fascinujúce časti mythbusters, kde je [Jamie], ako aj [ADAM] vyvinúť náhodné skvelé veci. Je to švédsky jazykový program, takže ak by niekto chcel urobiť niektoré subjekty pre epizódy, budeme oveľa viac, než je potešení, že sa s ňou znova spojíme.

Webová softvérová aplikácia definovaná rádio

Amateur Radio Club na University of Twente v Holandsku prišiel s niečím skutočne cool: webová softvérová aplikácia definovaná rádio. Takže čo sa pýtate? Je to len streamovanie zvuku alebo niečo cez internet? Nie. Môžete skutočne spravovať tento SDR nad webom.

Je nám ľúto, že sme otočili hardvér obrátený na trosku. Sme naozaj.

Junk Box Tesla Coil

[JJ] šľahačkou Homemade Tesla Coil z nezdraviny, ktorý ležal. V podstate je to kus PVC potrubia, tenisový loptičku, ako aj hliníkovú fóliu. Dokonca aj transformátor bol vytiahnutý z dlhodobého projektu. [JJ] je dostať nejaké naozaj veľké oblúky, takže budeme zavolať túto víťazstvo.

Časové obvody Aktívne

[Danilo] bol pozvaný na kostýmovú oslavu s filmom tému. Požadoval niečo späť do budúcnosti – je, takže šľahal tokový kondenzátor (preklad). Je to založené na pic12F675, s mikrokontrolérom beží trochu kódu, ktorý bliká LED diódy rovnako ako film. Teraz na projekt Hoverboard …

Rozbité tablet v NES situácie žije svoje dni ako emulátor

Developer tejto práce začal s 7 “tabletou, ktorý dostal od spolupracovníka. Obrazovka bola strašne rozbitá z jedného rohu šírenia s celým povrchom. Hardvér vo vnútri stále pracoval, vrátane HDMI Out Port. Skončil transplantáciu tabliet hardvéru pre využitie ako emulátor.

Po troch s veľkosťou sa zistil, že tabletový hardvér bude tvar vo vnútri situácie poškodeného NES. Batéria by bola ťažká fit, avšak táto vec sa vždy bude vyžadovať, aby bola prepojená s televíziou, takže neexistuje žiadna požiadavka na prácu bez siete. Zadná doska bola narezaná na veľkosť, ako aj využitá ako pokus o inštaláciu základnej dosky v prípade. Pred týmto krokom zapálil USB HUB, ako aj namontovaný, aby sa zabezpečilo, že dva porty môžu pristupovať k pôvodným otvorom ovládača.

Neexistujú žiadne podrobnosti o použitom softvérovej aplikácii, avšak posledný obrázok v galérii zobrazuje hra HEARFOX.

[Vďaka cody]

X11 na Android

[Ghostwalker] položil smeru pre spustenie X11 na vašom zariadení so systémom Android. To znamená, že môžete spustiť full-fúkanú atmosféru Linux Desktop v telefóne. Potrebuje, aby ste už mali debian shell na telefóne, ktorý sme pokrývali skôr. Namiesto toho, aby ste ho mohli nájsť s vlastným ovládačom na obrazovke, je zahnutý na server VNC. Môžete odkazovať na IT s využitím android VNC Viewer na telefóne alebo prostredníctvom akéhokoľvek typu iného klienta VNC. Navrhuje buď ICEWM alebo ENDOWNER-HEAD LXDE pre správu okna. Môžete potenciálne nastaviť GNOME alebo KDE, ale my by sme prekvapení, ak to bol akýkoľvek typ rýchlejšie ako psa pomaly. Rozumieme, že ak máte akýkoľvek druh úspechu, ako aj to, čo si myslíte, že je to najlepšie využitie.

Uberbong: Odparovanie PC Chladenie, pravdepodobne

Nie sme 100% istí, čo presne sa deje. Zdá sa, že je to obrovský odparovací chladiaci zostatok pre počítač, hoci názov nás zaujíma, či nemá žiadne iné použitie. Nie je veľa popisu, ale cítili sme, že číry rozsah tohto chladiaceho systému zaručil nejakú publicitu. Niektoré kopanie okolo ukazuje, že to bolo v roku 2003, ale je to nové.

[cez reddit]

EEPROM Hack odomknúť CrimPled funkcie v Agilent Multimeter, rovnako ako LCR meter

[Gnif] robil to, čo akýkoľvek typ veľkého hackeru robí … strhlenie okolo vnútorného jazyka jedného z jeho nástrojov, aby presne videli, ako to funguje. Zatiaľ čo tam, on, on zistil, že EEPROM hack môže urobiť AGILENT U1241A FUNKCIU ako U1242A.

Ak ste do tohto typu vec, že ​​Rigol 1052e hack mal už vyskočil na myseľ. To bol firmvér ochorený gadget, ktorý, keď sa odomkol, urobil menej drahý dizajn presne rovnaké metódy, ako je to 400 dolárov oveľa drahšie súrodenca. To nemá skôr presný rovnaký vplyv, pretože nákladový rozdiel je niekde medzi $ 20- $ 100. Stále, táto vec je len cool, že?

Niekoľko správ dole v nite spojenej nad [gnif] zdieľa príbeh presne, ako objavil hack. Po skratke I2C radu EEPROM pri poháňaní glukomeru bol schopný vidieť, že gadget inicializuje veľké množstvo jeho hodnôt do 0xff, keď nemôže objaviť udržiavané údaje. Ďalším krokom bolo využitie dosky STM32 na vypudenie obsahu EEPROM. S údajmi zálohovania bezpečne uchovávalo zmeny hodnôt, ako aj reflushing chip. S týmto spôsobom zistil, že zmena jedného bajtu od 0x01 do 0x02 umožnilo funkcie vyššieho modelu. Taktiež funguje na modernizáciu U1732C na nastavenú funkciu U1733C.

HACKADAY PRIVE VSTUPENIE: OPEN SOURCE ELEKTROSPINGERNING

Elektrospinring je proces dávkovania polymérneho roztoku z dýzy, potom aplikovanie extrémne vysokého napätia perspektíva medzi dýzou, ako aj obrazovkou kolektora. Výsledkom je veľmi, extrémne jemné vlákno, ktoré je natiahnuté, ako aj predĺžené na nanometrov. Prečo by to niekto chcel? Tieto vlákna robia fantastické filtre od ich veľkej plochy. Elektrospinonovanie bolo spomenuté ako umožnenie inovácií pre budúcnosť textilu. Realita však, že nikto naozaj neoznáme presne, ako sa elektrospropining skončí, že je základným priemyselným procesom, pretože je to tak zriedkavé. Nie veľa laboratórií skúmajú elektrospinonický, aby nedošlo k ničomu priemyslu.

[Douglas Miller] buduje vlastný elektrospinistický stroj. S výnimkou zlovestných výstražných indikácií na 40-Kilovtovom napájaní, nie je nič v tomto stroji nič, čo to robí akýkoľvek typ odlišnej od normálnej, homebrew 3D tlačiarne. Tam sú krokové motory vo vnútri zvýšiť, rovnako ako znížiť vozík, injekčnú striekačku, ako aj praktický USB port. Ak ste nerozumeli žiadnemu typu lepšie, môžete rýchlo predpokladať [Doug] ‘s OpenSpin je navrhnutý tak, aby vytlačil Fidget Spinners, ako aj malé remorkéry namiesto filmov uhlíkových nanotubes, ako aj piezoelektrických termoplastov.

Zariadenie DIY Elektrospinisting je skutočne, o čom je cenu Hackaday. Je to umožnenie inovácie, ktorú môže niekto vyvinúť niekoľko stoviek dolárov, ktoré tiež umožňuje skutočné vedu. Fólie, ako aj blobs, ktoré sa vyvíjajú v elektrospinistickom stroji [Doug], by mohli rýchlo objaviť dom v téze kandidátskej práce alebo ako prvok v oblasti špičkovej výskumnej štúdie o tom, čo z inovácií batérie na webe spodnej časti.

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